Becca Bryan – Bryan House Quilts
Sally Keller – Sally’s Angelworks
Hilary Smith - Young Texan Mama
As part of my ongoing effort to get organized, I’ve been wanting to make a pegboard for my garage for a long time. I finally had some time recently and I think it turned out pretty well. This is a very basic woodworking project. I didn’t use any power tools except for a drill and just hand sawed a few pieces. It’s straightforward and an easy way to organize a garage, craft room, sewing room, or game room. I made mine 2′ x 4′, but there are larger pegboard options available and your local home improvement store. The directions would be the same, except for the changing dimensions.
* One 2′ x 4′ piece of hardwood pegboard (home improvement store, ~$15)
* Two 2″ x 2″ x 8′ furring strips
—- Cut one in half into two 4′ lengths
—- Cut second in half; then cut one piece in half again to get two 2′ lengths (you’ll have an extra 4′ piece)
* 15 – 20″ long piece of scrap 1″ x 4″ or similar wood to make a french pleat
* Box of 1.5″ wood screws (you’ll need ~20-30)
* Power drill
* Basic supplies – tape measure, level, pencil, etc.
The overall plan for the pegboard is to create a frame of furring around the outer edge behind the pegboard material. The furring strips will be attached to the board and to each other to create a strong frame with the pegboard that is held away from the wall a sufficient amount to allow you to hang hooks through the holes without your wall getting in the way.
To start the construction, place the furring strips in a rectangle on the floor or a sturdy surface with the pegboard on top. The assembly should look as it would on the wall. For each furring strip, carefully align it to make sure everything is straight and aligned with the pegboard and drive screws from the front of the pegboard, through a hole and into the furring strip. The head of the screw should not fit through the hole and should secure it to the frame of furring strips. I put about 4 to 6 screws on each of the 4 sides. Once all of the furring strips is attached to the pegboard, flip over the board and secure the furring strips to each other at the corners for added rigidity.
At this point, you should have your pegboard essentially assembled. If you want to spray paint the whole thing, now is the time. (I kept this one au naturel since it was for the garage, but am considering a white one for my craft room. That’s for another weekend…)
The next step is to hang the pegboard on your wall of choice. Feel free to hang this however you’d like, but I’d recommend a french pleat. The whole assembly has some weight to it, so you’ll need something stronger than hooks or nails. The french pleat is a good solution because it provides a hardy hanging surface. This technique is frequently used hang headboards when they do not attach to the bed frame.
You can find a lot of tutorials in the blogosphere about french pleats. They are pretty simple if you have a good picture. Here’s my attempt of a descriptive photo:
The key is find a piece of scrap wood that is ~1 – 1.5″ thick. depending on the shape and weight of your pegboard, you can either create a long french cleat across the whole length of the piece you’re hanging, or you can use two pieces on each edge like I did. I found a 1″ x ~18″ piece of scrap in my garage. I first cut it in half on the short length to create two 1″ x ~9″ pieces. Then, using a miter box or table saw, cut a 45 degree angle cut through the shorter length of each piece. If you are using one large cleat, cut a 45 degree cut down the entire length of the piece, the long way.
Then, the method will be to attach one piece that you just cut to the wall and the other, matching piece attaches to your pegboard. The key is to make sure the piece attached to the wall is oriented with the cut, angled edge upward and with the higher side away from the wall. This creates a triangle shaped ridge at the top of the piece of wood on each side of where the peg board will go (or along the entire length, if using one large cleat). Then, attached the matching piece of wood to your pegboard oriented downward with the longer side away from the pegboard. Then, you can easily hang the pegboard by setting it onto of your french cleat. This makes the item very secure but easy to hang and remove. Make sure to attach the wall cleat to a stud with 2 to 4 screws. If using a long cleat, attach at every stud with at least 2 screws.
I found making this DIY pegboard was an easy and fun way to get organized. The key was to figure out what size I wanted and how to hang it. Once I mastered the french cleat, and with some rigorous measuring to make sure it would be level, my pegboard was wonderful and put to use right away. You can also cut the peg board to make the personalized pegboard that fits your space. Happy DIY-ing!
When decorating a new place or redecorating your humble abode, sometimes deciding on paint colors is the hardest part. Once you’ve finally made the leap and committed to wall colors, the last thing you want is your furniture, curtains, rugs, accessories, and everything else not to match.
I got frustrated with not knowing how to match the blue-gray in my guest room. Although I have the original paint chips from Sherwin Williams, I think having the other 4 colors on the strip is distracting and there is never a large enough swatch to make real comparisons. I decided to take my decorating game to the next level by making my own swatches.
I created swatches by painting tongue depressors with all my paint colors (and a few paint samples I had bought during my quest for the perfect wall colors). First, I wrote the name and color number on each stick with ball point pen. Then, I painted each side and let them dry. I also stained a tongue depressor with a gray stain that I recently used on a project (post to come…). Once they were all dry, my amazing swatch collection is ready.
The revelation in this project was using the perfect container – a plastic container that the packets for 2-qt crystal light comes in! It is the perfect size for these sticks and there is room for fabric swatches or other inspiration items that I may need while shopping.
After a year in my new house, I am finally starting to update my backyard into something useable. The builder, in typical builder style, just threw down some St. Augustine sod on their way to the final punch list. That was fine, at least there was something out back.
My house is a 3-story single family home with a very small back yard – about 25’ wide by 18’ deep. Enough for a small dog or patio or pergola, but nowhere near the backyard that most of the houses around me have. It’s perfect for me, less to keep up so I’m happy. Now it just needs to be usable.
Here is the starting point, pretty plain backyard with my A/C unit and small concrete pad off of my back door.
I’ve thought about a few different options include a wooden deck, concrete slab with tile, or concrete pavers and all of these with or without a pergola. What about trees? What about plants? What about planter boxes? Edging options? Water features? Fire pits? The blank canvas is overwhelming, so many options!
I finally decided to start with a paver patio. My neighbor had a patio installed by Pablo of PR Construction in Houston, TX. I really liked it and it fit our small back yards perfectly. I got the recommendation and Pablo came and helped my plan my back patio.
I was originally thinking of something quite plain and straightforward – a rectangle of travertine. After Pablo’s consultation, he convinced me to consider one of the multi-colored paver varieties in gray with a dark gray border. We decided on a herringbone pattern for the main body with a soldier edge in dark gray. Pablo was nice enough to drop off some samples while I was out of town so I could make sure everything matched my house paint color. After I saw the pavers in person, I knew Pablo was right. He started the installation, and…
I couldn’t be happier!! Pablo installed everything in a day and a half and was professional, tidy, and helpful. He answered any questions I had and recommended maintenance. I couldn’t recommend him any more highly. My neighbor has recently had Pablo come back for more work on his side yard. Pablo is the unofficial paver of the neighborhood.
I know most of you may not be in the Houston area, but if you are I can’t recommend Pablo highly enough!
I hesitate to call this an Ikea Hack right off the bat, but I made some personalized cover for two of my Ikea Henriksdal bar stool. I love the bar stools, but am sometimes a little disappointed in the selection of covers that Ikea carries. They change season to season, but if there are a few seasons without something I like, my décor gets a little stale.
I have two sets of stools, one for my bar and one for my sewing room, and already had a navy blue cover. I used this cover along with the bar stool itself to develop the pattern. I had originally picked up an instruction sheet for making a cover at Ikea itself, but when I made pattern pieces according to Ikea measurements, the pieces were not the correct size. I threw that plan out and used my existing seat cover and the chair itself to make new pattern pieces.
Supplies you’ll need:
Paper or brown paper bag (for making pattern pieces)
1.5 yd fabric per barstool
1.5 yd sewable Velcro
Sewing machine (If you have a serger, this is a great use for it)
General sewing supplies (scissors, matching thread, pins, etc.)
I first created the 5 pattern pieces needed (chair back – back, chair back – front, seat, seat side, and seat front) using printer paper taped together to make the larger pieces. (Butcher paper or poster board also work well for making larger pattern pieces). I included a 5/8” seam allowance since I was using upholstery fabric. If you are using a cotton or thinner fabric you could make do with a ½” or smaller seam allowance.
Next, I cut the 6 pieces for each chair (1 x chair back – back, 1 x chair back – front, 1 x seat, 2 x seat side, and 1 x seat front). The seat side pattern piece will be for either the left or right side. Make sure to cut the two side pieces from different sides of your fabric to make sure you have the right side out for both the right and left side. Then, I began to assemble each chair. Since this was a new pattern, I worked with large stiches first (4 – 4.5 mm) and checked the fit at each step. I made adjustments if needed, and then resewed each seam with smaller stiches (2.5 – 3 mm). I also serged the seams to create a smooth finish and to make it easier to wash the covers. The upholstery fabric I used shed threads pretty easily so the serger helped me keep everything tidy.
I created the chair back and chair seat and sewed them together. Once it was mostly assembled, I fit the cover on my chair and pinned the bottom hem all the way around. I only needed the loop side of the hook and loop Velcro since the Ikea bar stools have hook Velcro around the bottom edge to hold the seat covers. Once the Velcro position was determined, I hemmed the bottom edge of the cover and sewed on the Velcro. Then, my covers were ready for use!
For this post, I thought I’d share a few household tips that my life a little easier. I do a few simple things that are easy and super helpful. Some are super simplistic, but I don’t apologize for that since some of the easiest things turn out to be the most helpful!
As most of you have experienced, but tupperware cabinet is unruly at the best of times. I take my breakfast and lunch to work, so my tupperware is in a constant state of flux. I found something really simple to help me keep it in control. I use a set of inexpensive bookends to keep the lids separated by size and organized. These particular bookends were from Ikea and are small enough to fit in my small cabinets.
I have to thank my wonderful friend and neighbor Susan for this tip. For those of you like me in an older house or condo without tiled and grouted showers, you’ll know about mildew stains on caulking. Even if your shower is clean, an unsightly black stain can exist on the caulking. To eliminate this easily, use toilet bowl cleaner with bleach. Any brand will work as long as it contains bleach and is the thick kind that you usually dispense right under the rim of the toilet bowl. For the shower, just apply the cleaner liberally to the caulking that is stained and allow to sit for at least 30 minutes. Then, rinse liberally with water to remove all of the cleaner and voila!
Enjoy these tips. There will be some more on the way soon!
It seems like a blog post every other week is going to work out better for my schedule, every week might have been a bit optimistic on my part J. Here is my next tutorial.
I love decorating my new condo by combining items from lots of different stores and making a things to add a super personal touch. This week I am going to show you how to make a filled table lamp to match your décor. I am usually NOT a fan of silk faux flowers as a rule, but I decided to try them in my idea for this lamp since it will be contained within the glass. When I think of silk flowers, I usually think of dusty, old things. You could also use colorful stones, rocks, souvenirs, colorful paper, or anything you like. I am already thinking of doing a second one with colorful shredded paper.
To start, I opened up the top of my lamp by unscrewing the top socket. I cleaned the lamp inside and out well with the glass cleaner. Mine had a sort of film on it, probably from sitting in the store for a while. Once your lamp is clean, you’re ready to get creative.
For the types of flowers I bought, I cut individual orchids off of the vine and cut up my hydrangeas to create smaller flower bunches and individual leaves. I chose to do this because the tall and skinny shape of my lamp wouldn’t fit the full hydrangea bloom. If you have a shorter or wider one, it would be interesting to keep some larger blooms.
Remember that your lamp needs to be interesting 360° around so plan for how you are going to arrange your items. I started by placing some leaves in the ‘back’ of my lamp (the side with the cord exiting on the bottom). Then, I placed my taller grass pieces toward the back and spread out. Then, I started placing the purple hydrangea pieces with orchids interspersed throughout the bottom. I made sure all the orchids were facing out and you couldn’t see any of the stem I cut off.
I played with my arrangement for a while until I got it how I liked it. Once I was happy with it, I reattached the socket and installed the lampshade. Then I chose a spot for my new favorite lamp. Get creative with this great idea!